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The fundamental difference between pruning summer and autumn raspberries lies in which stems produce the fruit. Summer-fruiting raspberries (floricanes) produce berries on second-year wood, meaning they fruit on stems that grew during the previous season. In contrast, autumn-fruiting raspberries (primocanes) produce fruit on the current season’s growth. Because of these differing biological cycles, the timing and method of pruning are entirely different: summer varieties are pruned immediately after harvest, while autumn varieties are typically pruned in late winter.
Table of Contents
Identifying your raspberry type
Before applying any pruning cuts, you must correctly identify whether your plant is a summer or autumn variety. Misidentifying the type can lead to cutting away the very stems that would have produced your next crop.
- Summer-fruiting (Floricanes): These are generally more vigorous, bushy plants that can reach heights of approximately 1.8m. They typically fruit from early to late summer and usually do not produce a significant crop until their second summer after planting.
- Autumn-fruiting (Primocanes): These plants are usually smaller and less vigorous, typically reaching 1.2m to 1.5m in height. They are more compact, making them suitable for smaller plots or containers, and may crop in the first year if established in time.
Pruning summer-fruiting raspberries
Summer raspberries require a two-stage approach to pruning and training to ensure the plant does not become an unmanageable bush and to maximise the next year’s yield. Pruning should take place immediately after the harvest is finished.
Step 1: Removing old wood
Once the fruit has been picked, identify the old, woody stems that have just finished fruiting. These canes will not fruit again. Cut these old stems right down to ground level and remove them from the area.
Step 2: Selecting and training new canes
Look for the strong, green stems that have grown during the current season. These are the canes that will bear fruit next summer. Select the strongest six to eight stems per plant. Tie these to your support wires, spacing them roughly 10cm apart.
Step 3: Thinning and trimming
Any young green stems that were not selected for the next crop should be cut to ground level. If the selected stems are taller than your top support wire, loop them over and tie them in temporarily. In February, these can be trimmed back to a bud approximately 10cm above the top wire.
Pruning autumn-fruiting raspberries
Autumn raspberries are significantly easier to manage because they do not require the selective training of individual canes. The goal is to clear the plant to allow fresh, fruiting growth to emerge in spring.
Late winter pruning
For a single autumn crop, cut all last season’s canes right down to ground level in late winter, including any that did not fruit. This removes the previous year’s exhausted wood and makes space for new primocanes to emerge in late winter or early spring, which will then bear fruit later that same year.
Summer thinning
While the primary prune happens in winter, you may find that the plants become overcrowded as they grow. In early summer, thin out any overly dense clumps by removing the weaker stems. Aim to leave the remaining stems spaced about 10cm apart to improve airflow and light penetration.
The double-cropping technique
If you only have autumn-fruiting raspberries but wish to have a harvest in both summer and autumn, you can use a specific pruning method known as double-cropping. This is best suited for strongly growing, established plants of varieties such as ‘Joan J’ or ‘Polka’.
The process:
- February: Instead of cutting everything to the ground, select six to eight of the strongest stems per 1m of row. Prune only the upper, fruited portion of these stems, leaving the bottom section intact. Cut all other stems to ground level.
- Summer: The partially pruned stems will produce a modest crop in the summer.
- Post-Summer: Once these summer fruits are harvested, cut those specific stems down to ground level. This leaves the current year’s new growth to fruit normally in the autumn.
While this results in a slightly reduced autumn crop compared to traditional pruning, the combined harvest can be worthwhile on strong plants, and the cropping season is extended.
Comparing pruning requirements
The following table outlines the core distinctions in the maintenance cycle for the two types of raspberries.
| Feature | Summer-Fruiting | Autumn-Fruiting |
|---|---|---|
| Fruiting Wood | One-year-old stems | Current season stems |
| Primary Prune Time | Immediately after harvest | February (Late Winter) |
| Pruning Method | Selective (Keep 6-8 new canes) | Total (Cut all to ground) |
| Plant Height | Up to 1.8m | 1.2m to 1.5m |
| First Year Crop | Usually second summer | First year |
Managing suckers and growth
Regardless of the variety, raspberries are vigorous plants that spread via suckers—new shoots that emerge from the root system outside the main plant. To maintain the structure of your row and prevent the plants from becoming an invasive thicket, these suckers should be managed in the spring.
Any suckers that sprout outside the intended growing area should be removed. If you wish to expand your raspberry patch, these healthy suckers can be carefully dug up and replanted in a new location. Only propagate currently healthy, productive plants; being originally sold as healthy does not prove an older plant is still free of virus. Buy healthy replacement stock if the patch is declining.
Useful products for this job
The links below open Amazon UK product searches. Check the exact item, seller, current price and compatibility before buying.
- Galvanised garden wire: Used to create the horizontal support systems required for tying in summer-fruiting canes. Ensure the wire is galvanised to prevent rust; check the length required for the row of plants. Search Amazon for Galvanised garden wire.
- Garden twine: Necessary for securing selected summer-fruiting canes to support wires without damaging the stems. Choose a soft, weather-treated twine to avoid cutting into the green stems. Search Amazon for Garden twine.
- Secateurs: Essential for making clean cuts when removing old woody canes to ground level. Bypass blades are generally preferred for live stems to ensure a clean cut that heals quickly. Search Amazon for Secateurs.
Related garden guides
- How to Prune Fruit Trees in the UK: A Comprehensive Guide (2026)
- Mulch depth and placement: protecting plants without burying stems
- More greenhouse & growing guides
Sources and further guidance
Guidance researched in September 2026. The feature image is an AI-generated illustration. Product guidance is based on published information, not hands-on testing.